Culture rehab

I've been looking forward to writing this post. Although it won't be as "historically" or "traditionally" shocking, my day in Jordan two Thursdays ago was one for the contemplative books. I'd like to apologize for it's length to start off! A bit long-winded to say the least.

So, in a previous post I had mentioned that I might end up going out with some Jordanian girls. Well, originally when I left the USA I thought that spending some time with Jordanian girls would be a fascinating experience. I was hoping that, and Gary was as well, that I might get to spend some time alone with some traditional Muslim women as they might be more forthcoming about their daily lives with me (as a woman) than with Gary, a male professor. You know, I thought, teas, possibly trying on a burka, and maybe go to a mosque or event where men and women are divided.

Well I stand corrected, "traditional Muslims in Jordan" are changing as rapidly as Madonna has changed her images in the past two decades. When I met Sarah, her twin Farah, and their friend Sherihan, at the courtyard meet and greet a couple of days earlier, I did not expect to be chatting them up about going to some "clubs and parties." I was torn about agreeing to go with them, as I was in Jordan on "business" and had a higher image to uphold, or so I thought.

After our first introductions, we exchanged phone numbers and facebook pages, and we had been in contact over facebook for the past few days. GO FIGURE! As I had mentioned before when I was at the University of Jordan (UJ), I noticed how the women dressed in the range from full black burkas with faces covered, to jeans with fashionable tunics and simple headscarves, or no covering at all and plain ol' Western garb that I might wear. My Jordanian friends were of the latter style, which is why I was hesitant to go out with them as I figured it wouldn't be much different fro what I was used to.

When we first discussed going out together, I was initially surprised how eager they were to insist I was coming... another example of how hospitable and welcoming the Jordanians are. The next thing they asked me was, "What are you going to wear? Do you like Arabic music? We will pick you up, ok?" Oh jeeeeeeeez!

So I found myself at UJ on Thursday morning to attend a "19th Century American Literature" class taught by Dr. Rula Quawas, one of our Global Modules enthusiasts. I wanted to get a feel for what these students are learning in an English/American class in the Middle East. The languages, arts and English depts are very active here. English is the second and very common language and Western education is avidly encouraged and attended.

The theme of that particular class was based on a reading by Margaret Fuller titled, "Women in the 19th Century--A breaththrough in the rights of women." Honestly, I don't know what I was expecting when I went into the class; was I going to participate? Be a fly on the wall? How does a Middle Eastern classroom conduct such a discussion? To my surprise, not only were the students bright, and way more well versed than some English Literature students I know in the US, but they were quick! Dr. Rula's style of teaching is direct, very fast, and interactive. In fact, Dr. Rula spoke faster than any teacher I've ever had. She covered more material in a 1 hour class then we @ Champlain might cover in a week. I was dizzy just trying to keep up, but I enjoyed it. It made me feel like the students were expected to, and do, take their classes seriously. It was a refreshing change for me.

Side note: Let's have a quick word about the English language here... I am a speaker of one of the romance languages because I went to a French immersion primary and secondary... it's easier to learn a second language as a child. However, I've always been told, and believed, that aside from the Asian languages, and possibly some of the historic languages, that English was the hardest to learn because of all the slangs, double uses, and dialects. The military students that are staying at ACOR from Pennsylvania who are at the University of Jordan for a semester to learn Arabic have said it was one of the more difficult things they have ever done. Most of them have had previous Arabic classes while in the US and the experience in Jordan was like a capstone to their studies. No such luck they say, according to them, it's impossible to wrap your mind around Arabic in just one semester, no matter what extent of training one has. This led me to conclude that it's a testament to these local students at UJ - not only are they born Arabic speakers, but they are a school of 35,000+ students who can speak and study fluently in English. Their willingness to learn puts the average American student to shame. No offense.

Passionately, Dr. Rula imparted that women were encouraged to leave their mark on the world, remember that women's rights are RIGHTS and not privileges, resist indoctrinations, and that concluded with a quote from Katherine Mansfield, "I'm capable of becoming whoever I want to be," at which point my Jordanian friends came rushing up to me to finalize plans for later that evening.

In a 30+ student classroom where the majority were covered head to toe - my Jordanian friends looked as though they walked right out of a US suburb mall: Juicy sweats, high ponytails, hoodies... the plan was they were going to pick me up at around 630-7pm. Kind of early for sure, but most girls have a curfew of 10pm every night, even if you are an American study abroad student. However, it was Thursday night, which is like our Friday because in Jordan the business/school week runs from Sunday-Thursday with Fri & Sat being the "weekend," so their curfew was extended to midnight. I thought, how harmless could it be? Being home at midnight might still give me time to get some work done. Also, I wondered, how is it these girls can even go out? They are 19!

Turns out they couldn't pick me up because at 630-7pm, both Sarah and Farah were still in their salon chairs. It's extremely common for Middle Eastern women to do the salon thing. I took a taxi and met the girls at the Abdoun Mall where they were getting their hair and makeup done for 3JD each!!!! Something they had done for less than 10 usd would have been around 50usd in the US. They had asked me on the phone if I wanted to have it done as well, but I declined, but after seeing them, I was like, "damn!" I'm not one to shy away from an evening of dress up.

Farah and her stylist


After the glamour girl session, we hopped into Mohammad's car, the girls' companion, and who I would later learn is a trusted family friend. Muslim women cannot really be seen wandering out by themselves, it's not socially accepted and might cause a reputation strike against her and the family if they are seen alone or with an "inappropriate" male. We spend the next hour in the car looking for the "bar" we are going to. Yeah, I said BAR - which I'm confused at considering alcohol isn't permitted in the Islamic faith. It is a little weird at first when you go to a restaurant and there's no beer or wine on the menu, I always found myself looking to have a glass of wine with dinner. Ironically, along the way I wonder why we are hitting dead ends, backtracking and confused at where we were going. My friends had been to our destination before, and have lived in Amman all their lives, but the city is even confusing for the locals. A series of hills and various "circles" which attach the web of streets that make up the metropolis is nearly impossible to master. Meanwhile, it's a good thing it takes us 30 minutes to find the location because Farah was dressing in the car.

I don't know what I was expecting when I agreed to go out with Jordanian ladies, but it certainly wasn't being out with ultimate divas. I assisted in the backseat while Farah got out of her sweatsuit and into a pushup bra, black mini-dress, black patent peep-toe heels, and miles of L'Oreal bronzing stick, ounces of perfumes, and layers of eyeliner and lip gloss. About seven years ago the Western influence on Jordan increased so much that anything materialistic, cosmetics included, is new to the latest generation. And L'Oreal seemed to break into the right industry. Whenever I went to a trendy Western-style mall, the L'Oreal stores were a focus of the mall, looking a lot like MAC cosmetics would in the US. Whereas L'Oreal here is simply a higher quality drugstore brand, hardly worthy of a retail location. All the while we are listening to a station on the radio that they love which is playing the same kind of dance music I used to party to when I lived in Montreal. I even knew the words to the songs... and most of them were underground, non-commercial tracks... it was surreal. Here I was half-way across the globe, in a Middle-Eastern city, in the backseat of a car with girls getting ready for a night at the club, singing along to some of my old faves. Had you backtracked me 5 or 6 years... I would have been in Montreal - no difference.

I asked the girls how it was they could be out on this night, basically wondering what the deal was with their parents? Were they lying to them about where they were? Their father worked for the UN... ahhhhhhh! I assumed he was simply very open-minded, and they said that they normally would have to be home at 10, but they were allowed out until midnight tonight. I asked if they could come home looking like this, or if they had to pull a maneuver in the bushes outside of their house and transform back into the sweatsuit-clad teens from earlier and they said, "nope." Alllllrighty then!!!

We find our bar--hilariously on what seems like the only street in Amman that's being torn up and worked on. The tiny compact car is bumping and off-roading along the street through piles of dirt to get the to front door. Three high-heeled ladies pour out of the car and lead eachother arm in arm, giggling and wobbling our way along the uneven road inside the place.

It's a quaint, modern and cozy, almost hidden bar, three small floors high with a terrace on the top floor. We sit at the bar running along the railing with a view of one of Amman's many hillsides and of the sleepy and dusty cross-street below.

Our Spot


The Ladies!


View from the terrace


My escorts - twins Farah and Sarah


How do I look?


The bar is cock-full of American selections: Bacardi, Grey Goose, Bombay Saphir, etc. I order a Bacardi and Coke, my first drink in the Middle East, (yes it feels weird, and kindof wrong) and
the girls opt for a simple Red Bull. They said they will drink at our next destination, a Spanish-style club where Farah's boyfriend might be and apparently where we can get our dance ON! WooHoo! Two of the girls' friends, Americans of course (I've come to the conclusion they are American magnets), from Minnesota meet up with us.

As an intermediary stop before the club, the girls want to go to a house party to meet some friends. We spend another 45 mins trying to get to this place, somewhere near the Israeli Embassy, and find ourselves in a neighborhood of Hummers, Porshes, and Mercedes. Lovely. I get on the phone and speak with Nicole, from Southern Cali, drawl and all, and we finally get to our house party destination. It's supposed to be a Halloween party, being that it's the Thursday before the holiday and there was going to be Americans here. Of all the Americans to be there, I wasn't expecting to walk in and see my roommates from ACOR! Of all the parties and places in the great city of Amman, I walk into the same party that I saw my roomates getting ready for when I was getting ready to go out with my Jordanian friends. On my way out earlier that evening, we had each wished the other a good evening and a good "adventure." HA! Go figure.

Mahmoud and Mohammad


Friends


Sarah, Friend, Farah, Me


They were all dressed for Halloween and we all had a great time... it was surreal. Being at a Halloween house party in the Middle East with the only Jordanians in the room. We danced, we sang, and we never made it to the Spanish club. My friends from ACOR escorted me home and I was thankful for that. It's funny how strangers can become family in such a short time.

Ross and Spencer - Friends from ACOR - as coaches

Surfacing

Hello everyone.

Thanks to all for the worried emails, sorry I haven't had a chance to update things here in a few days. Posting hasn't been easy lately... whether it's simply because we've been so busy since Thursday or I haven't been able to get the internet to work. Either way, I will update this shortly. I can't even begin to wrap my brain around all the things that I've experienced, the people I've met, or the sights I've seen in the past few days. It really has all been a blur--a good blur though!

I leave in the morning and it will be another entire day of traveling. We just got back from Petra, which was an all-day, hiking experience since 6am when we were leaving until when we arrived back at ACOR at around 9pm. The drive is 3 hours each way through the desert (looks like the surface of the moon) and I took in the area of 500 pics today... we just counted. Wowzah! Will post some soon.

Jenica

The Roman Amphitheater

So after the Citadel we wandered down the hill to the Roman theater. Just getting down the hill was cool. You have to weave back and forth down stairs that run in between homes and little streets... like this:



This little girl was running so fast that I got my camera out at the last second... but I'm glad I did.

We wandered into the park that sits before the theater and meandered around a bit before entering the theater. There was an outdoor restaurant where you could potentially sit and have coffee, tea, sodas, or hookah, and a small row of shops. Alot like a town square park. Many locals and tourists... but lots of watchers.

The theater was built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius (169-177 AD). It's fairly large and quite steep to climb but was totally worth it of course, and it seats about 6,000 people. It is built into the hillside, and oriented north to keep the sun off the spectators.

Walking into the amphitheater:


This is one of my favorite pics from the theater because you can see the Temple of Hercules from it. In the previous post, I included a shot of this theater from up there. Pretty cool seeing it up there so high and knowing we walked all the way down to get the "full experience."


The theater is thought to have religious significance for the people of Amman as well. It's still used today for performances.


Taking it in.


Possibly one of the coolest things I've done since coming here is meeting Zaid. Scudder was eager to take me to his dagger/sword shop in the small market area that's outside of the theater. Last time he was here with Bob Mayer, they bought daggers from him and were thoroughly satisfied with the experience. Zaid has been in business for 20 years and has always held shop here. The people of Jordan are so friendly, if I haven't said it enough, and Zaid is the epitome of the kind. He will make you a custom dagger and personalize it for you. There's no pressure to purchase--which is something that the Jordanian vendors are known for, by trying to entice you into their shops--but not him, which makes you more willing to take it all in. The experience is worth it. He will bring tea or turkish coffee while you wait, (Scudder was upset that there was no more hibiscus tea that he and Bob had last time which was apparently memorable) and is eager to show you all the processes and impart as much information as he can. He will even encourage you to try practicing the design-making into the handle on practice daggers he keeps for customers to try. Using an age-old process, he will inscribe your name (or whatever you want) in Arabic into the blade, along with his information on the other side. There are pictures on the wall of him offering blades to the royal Hashemite family. In fact, he takes pictures with almost all his customers and will email them to you as well as will print them and put them up in his shop. He is a one-of-a-kind guy. I took the greatest video clip of him making daggers for us. It was amazing.


Scudder, Zaid and myself.


Zaid's store - next to the camera shop.



After the dagger shop we wandered around the downtown core. This city constantly surprises me with it's diversity and variety of eras just next door to eacht other. You can go from ancient Roman ruins, to a bustling, antiquated downtown that's dirty from car fumes (the oil seems very dirty and stinky here), traditionally Arabic and very busy... all the way to shopping districts that literally look like they belong in Paris or New York, complete with Starbucks and Mac Cosmetics. As a woman in the downtown area, I get a lot of looks, but it's not uncomfortable, just many glances from curious onlookers. Honestly, women are probably safer walking alone here (although I wasn't... relax Mom :), than in Burlington. Women are not viewed that way here, or in Islam; there is a lot of respect for women.


Downtown Amman - not a very good pic cause it was getting dark.


Gold - shops like this everywhere


Street vendor - some sort of beans


How books in Arabic, from texts to romance, are sold downtown.


After our adventures downtown (and getting sweets... oh my god Arabic sweets are so indulgent, I wish I could bring them home but most of them should be preserved or chilled)- we decided to go on a quest to find the only Mac (Apple) store in Jordan. Somewhere in the shopping area of Sweifeyeh (?? SPELL??) we were "told" (but we had no real clue what we were doing) there was a Mac store. If I haven't mentioned it already, I haven't had the use of my laptop since coming here because Burlington security forgot to give it back to me and I didn't realize it until JFK. So I needed a new charger for my MacBook, and we were on a quest.

It was the strangest thing--this shopping area turns out to be HUGE and pretty much the lunar opposite of the downtown core we just came from. Modern, clean, extremely Western, with all high-end European and American shops. It was surreal. Without any problem (surprising), we found the store and I squealed like a schoolgirl and skipped into the store. It was perfect! Looked like any other Mac store in America... I was pumped. EXCEPT WHEN THEY DON'T HAVE ANY MACBOOK CHARGERS IN-STOCK. Arrghhhhhhh!! It was such a bittersweet moment. I was in heaven but couldn't have my cake and eat it too. The manager kindly said they just ran out but that they had other Mac chargers... he offered to call Dubai and have one mailed, or to order one that would take 4 weeks! Oh well.

Mac Store - notice all the Paris shops surrounding it. Talk about typecasting customers.




I had to take this shot because of all the American shops all piled on top of each other... again, surreal.


Well that's all I can post for now, have to get packing so I can come home tomorrow. This all went by so fast. Will be in around 11pm on Sunday and I will be posting and catching up as best I can.

Love to all.
J

The Citadel updated

As promised - some descriptions. On Tuesday, we went to the Citadel in the center of Amman. It was pretty amazing to see. I was obsessed with the doors and must have a hundred door pictures.

The Hill of the Citadel (Jabal al-Qal'a) is in the middle of Amman and was occupied as early as the Neolithic period, and fortified during the Bronze Age (1800 BC). The ruins on the hill today are Roman through early Islamic. The name "Amman" comes from "Rabbath Ammon," or "Great City of the Ammonites," who settled in the region some time after 1200 BC. The Bible records that King David captured the city in the early 10th century BC; Uriah the Hittite, husband of King David's paramour Bathsheba, was killed here after the king ordered him to the front line of battle.

The Temple of Hercules
The great temple of Hercules was built between 162-166 AD and is larger than any temple in Rome itself. The temple portico is framed by six 33-foot tall columns. The absence of columns on the rest of the structure, has convinced the excavator that the temple was actually left unfinished. A model of the temple is displayed here at ACOR, the American Center for Oriental Research in Amman.





View of Amman from the Citadel hill


Ampitheater from Citadel - more pics of this to come. We walked down the hill and went inside.


More temple of Hercules




Inside the Byzantine church on the Citadel site - this dome is a recreation, the real one would have been covered and plastered.


Byzantine church


Pictures of the area (namely doors, but I have many more) around the church and the the Omayyad Palace--an impressive structure dating back to around 720AD and the rule of the Omayyad Arabs. Its exact function is unclear, but the building includes a monumental gateway, cruciform audience hall and four vaulted chambers. A colonnaded street runs through the complex and to the north and east, ruins of the palace grounds are visible.








View from Citadel - said to be the world's largest flying national flag


Edge of the Citadel looking down into the city of Amman.

Global Modules Blog

For any that are interested to read a history of Dr. Scudder's quest with the Global Modules, there is a blog that he updates while he travels and discusses the countries and institutions he visits. You can check it out here: GLOBAL MODULES BLOG

During this four week stint (if that can be considered a "stint") Gary will have visited Jordan, where he is furthering the connection he already has with the University of Jordan, a will visit Princess Sumaya University in Jordan. Then on to Zayed University in the United Arab Emirates, Kenyatta Univesity and Moi University in Kenya, and Uganda Christian University and the Islamic University in Uganda to run workshops and meet with interested faculty members, administrators and students.

Le Noisette

Tonight we went for dinner at Le Noisette - a lovely place that Char's friend Allah had chosen for us, and thank lord he did because it were up to us we would have gone to Pollo Ranchero - a Latino inspired joint that Scudder has his heart set on. This has apparently been a quest for years now... no one will let him go.

We sat outside - Allah ordered for us - and what a spread! You name it Middle Eastern tapas style appies - we had it. I also tried a lemon/mint drink... sooo lovely, like lemony mojito without alcohol. Yes, yes... there are fries in there... no comment.



The main course was unreal - a meat lovers grilled paradise... the pic doesn't do the spread justice... it was a killfloor. The before pic:




The after pic:



The Megatron of meat eating machines



Allah and my lemon/mint drink - yes, a Pizza Hut sign in the background... such ambiance.

University of Jordan (UJ)

We walked the fifteen minutes to UJ and the closer we got the more hectic it became. We had to shimmy down a dirt path (me in wedge heels, of course), and then hop along a busy sidewalk, take an overpass over the highway, and then weave through students and vendors (I wish I had taken pictures – next time) on our way to the front entrance. Our meeting was at 11 am and it appeared that all 40 000 students had to be there at the same time as well. Once we walked past the front gate and through security, there’s quite a long walk down a lane to the center of campus where “Big Ben,” a huge clock, stands as a meeting center because you can pretty much see it from everywhere.

The promenade entrance to UJ



The clock


The King and I


I couldn’t believe the variety of students: women in full veils or hijabs, with high heels, designer shades and handbags and fancy cell phones. And when I say cell phones, I mean CELL PHONES everywhere. Every single soul has one. Some women were in some serious Western wear (no, not cowboy boots) but designer jeans with some top I might wear and flats, heels, or cute sneakers, with or without a headscarf. A trend I noticed was tunics with jeans or khakis or the full black veil with a lowrise belt overtop. Most of the men looked like Euro metrosexuals, in the sense that they were obsessed with designer jeans and long-sleeved, fitted funky shirts.

One of many courtyards


"The Village" - like the pit at any university where you go to "be seen"


Sinner's Street - named by students of those who drink and smoke - a hangout where people sit on benches to the right



The campus itself is so vast with departments and buildings everywhere—beautiful, see photos. We found where we needed to be and met Dr. Rula Quawas, who I have been in email contact with and is one of Gary’s good friends here who has been a total cheerleader for Global Modules (GMs) for the past couple of years. She introduced me to a frenzy of people before and after Gary’s presentation. Everyone was so honored to meet us and very hospitable, we were treated very well. Following Rula around is a riot; she is a firecracker and one of those people that everyone knows. She is short and stocky and just a ball of energy. She speaks her mind and is very strong, and all the students and faculty appear to really admire her. I will be attending a couple of her literature classes, and a drama class tomorrow @ 2pm with Professor Inas who I met and who was with us most of the day. We had a series of short meetings and everyone was very nice and formal about meeting us. I had my very first Turkish coffee at one of these meetings and it was lovely-tasted like high quality chocolate almost, I can’t really think to describe it any other way.

My Turkish Coffee



I was introduced to many past GM students who were so eager to meet me. Doctor Scudder (Gary), as he is called (all faculty are called by their highest rank), is very well received there and people really want to talk about the GMs. We were invited to the very first “meet and greet” with the English department in one of the courtyards. It was a chance for the faculty and the students to mingle and talk outside of class that had never been done before, it was lovely. We were introduced and people were encouraged to come up and speak with us. And they came in droves! Interestingly, the veiled or hijab women went to Scudder first and many Western-dressed girls came straight to me. All wanted to know what I did, what I studied, etc etc. I mentioned that I had an interest in writing and I couldn’t believe how many were dying to ask my opinion of their work and what classes they could take to improve. I also was introduced to many past GM students and got all of their contact info (all cell #’s and facebook… go figure) to further my research. We were served what they call “Nescafe,” which was something of a treat for them, by a kid with a caraf pack on his back and a “coffee gun” in his hand—basically it was something that tasted like a Dunkin Donuts coffee with cream and sugar.

Dima and I - Past Global Module student


Scudder took the liberty to ask some of the girls I was speaking with if they were going to take me to some clubs and I almost spit out my coffee. I was there to be professional and keep a higher profile, I was like, “What the **** is he doing?” They were tickled and took down my info and then when he turned away they asked, “What are you going to wear! Do you like Arabic music? etc etc,” No, I didn't think American hoocie wear applied to Jordan - silly me. Farrah told me she was going to wear a mini dress and was smitten about it. As much as this isn’t something I didn’t think I was going to do. I think I have to. Just to say I did it. Most of the girls have a midnight curfew – so it shouldn’t be too bad. But these girls are lookers for sure, and seem like the “popular girls,” so please stay tuned for that one. :)

Sarah, Sherihan, and Farah - students who I hope to visit with again soon.


We were invited to lunch in the campus restaurant with Rula and a handful of the girls came with us to talk about the GMs. What a great bunch, all very, very bright and some even spoke French as well. You are served by formal servers in suits who can predict when you need or want something. I insisted on eating something I had never tried before and I ended up with a dish of chicken with some sort of tomato rice. It was very good and yes, I took pictures, of course! We started with breads and hummus and an eggplant spread (not baba ganoush though) and salad, and we were topped off with a classic dessert that I can’t remember the name of—new to me. Sweet with honey and crunchy with a sweet cheese base and these crispy noodley things on top and pistachios – great description, I know.

Drs. Rula and Scudder - forces to be reckoned with. Every school needs a Rula!


This evening we are going to dinner with Char and a friend of hers to a place nearby. Scudder went off to the gym and buy some clothes, and I wasn’t feeling so well, so I stayed behind to rest and write. I think it was a combination of the coffees, my whacked schedule, and the water. Although it’s “safe” to drink when boiled or served in restaurants, you still shouldn’t drink it. And my tummy is telling me now.

I have some pics to post but it's already time to run - when I return I will add them.
Cheers,
Jenica